Category Archives: Istanbul European Side

Kantin – Istanbul

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Let’s see…

A couple of stairs, enter through the glass door, greeted by smiling faces, crowd is eating happily, yes again full, should I wait for a table at the terrace or anywhere, let’s see what is on the big board today… White table clothes and fresh flowers meet the eye before the feast.

You are very welcome to Kantin!

Kantin is a safe place! One of the two-three safest places to eat in the city, other than home. But for this kind of food, sorry to say, there is no opponent for Kantin.  In Kantin the food is handled with respect, getting the most out of it.

The menu changes due to availability, seasons and mood. There is “Hergün” meaning everyday and “Bugün” meaning today menu written on a big board. If you are lucky to go there at spring, artichoke season, be sure to eat enginar pate, artichoke spread, smooth, kicking, flavors bursting in your mouth, served on a garlic rubbed toasted bread,  with a little goat cheese, leaves of water cress… Bahar salatası, spring salad, is with the best mozzarella you can find in Turkey, shelled fresh broad beans, asparagus, is the answer to  what a salad should be!

Çıtır, meaning crispy, is a little thin dough cooked in wood oven, topped with varieties of artichoke or vegetables or smoked salmon is the one thing you cannot get enough of. The bream also gets its share from the wood oven and comes with its crackling skin, filled with herbs. The grilled cutlet of chicken with sage, turkey marinated with honey, artichokes with parsley, everything…

Ayran is made with herbs, lemonade is old school. Turkish coffee is served with, well, I’ll leave this as a surprise…

Dükkan is down stairs where prepared food, desserts, bread, cheese and more delicacies are sold. If you are hungry after a days work, stop there to indulge yourself and pick our poison. One thing though! If you can choose!  Desserts have a league of their own. Lemon cake, chocolate cake, carrot cake -one of my faves-, cherry jam and clotted cream filled tarts, chocolate and brandy filled mini bombs… all the remedy you need anytime of the day!

The food of Kantin is simple, clean, all about Istanbul and Aegean. Şemsa Denizsel is an indisputable kitchen goddess and one of the best chefs of Turkey.

Skillful cooking, peculiar tastes, sustainability, top notch ingredients combined with flavors comes up to clean tastes, simple, yet every bite notable, leaving you in a bliss.

Kantin not only fills your tummy, but also your soul!

Address: Akkavak sokak No.30, Nişantaşı, Istanbul

Phone: (212) 219 3114

Service Hours: Restaurant, Monday-Saturday 11.00am-8.30pm last order, Dükkan Monday-Saturday 10.30am-8.00pm

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    Namlı Rumeli Köftecisi – Istanbul

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    Namlı Rumeli Köftecisi has been in service for almost 30 years now. Their specialty is little balls of heaven, or generally called, köfte!

    One bite, it is perfectly cooked, a little pink in the middle, moist, all meat jus is kept inside, seared on the outside. When you see the griller’s hasty moves, you once more love your köfte! Another bite, well it is so small you may not be left for your second bite but anyway, the taste of meat and fat lingers in your mouth. This köfte is made from lean veal meat and fat from brisket. The amount of fat is needed, or you will be choking on a dry meatball.

    Order your piyaz, the beans literally melt in your mouth, topped with tomatoes and if you like onions.

    After you are done with köfte, order irmik helvası, which is served warm, not so sweet, but a little lite on the pine kernels for my taste.

    Stop by, have a bite then keep on strolling through Istanbul!

    Address: Hocapaşa Sk. No:9, Sirkeci, Istanbul

    Phone: (212) 511 2196

    Service Hours: Open daily, around 11.00 till 5.00 or 6.00 pm, till meatballs finish. So hurry!

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      Hocapaşa Pidecisi – Istanbul

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      How many times you passed by and not stopped at this hidden pideci? I’ll tell, countless!

      Yusuf Bey, third generation shop owner  is working rapidly to fulfil every request coming from the customers, slicing the pide, preparing packages, dealing with money. The customers are picky, all locals, some waiting beside Davud Usta, while he cracks eggs on top of kıymalı pide, gets to hear one of the old customer says, put another one on top, one is not enough! Davud Usta has been working there for almost 25 years, he keeps on smiling while opening a ball of dough tapping it with his hands, he tops it with the desired ingredients, then to the shovel and in the big brick oven.

      Kıymalı pide is delicious, so is the kavurmalı pide. Munching on kıymalı pide you get the taste of onion, the meat and the spices,  all in good balance, the dough is crunchy, a little moist in the middle, love at first bite! The kavurma they use leaves the dough its flavors. The salty meat and the melted animal fat is divine.

      If you want to try something different, try the one with chicken. Yusuf Usta says, the customers love it which is his creation. He blends peppers, tomatoes, chicken breast with olive oil and spices. One of the faves.

      A real pide experience to win your tummy, in a place where time seems to stop!

      Address: Hocapaşa Sk. No: 19, Sirkeci, Istanbul

      Phone: (212) 512 0990

      Service Hours: Open everyday, 11:00am – around 8:00pm

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        Vefa Bozacısı – Istanbul

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        A narrow street, a little away from the center of town.

        A historical landmark, since 1876.

        Crowded inside. People enjoying, chatting, nibbling on roasted chickpeas and sipping boza.

        Boza, is a traditional drink enjoyed during winter time. This thick yellowish fermented drink, is a little sweet a little sour. A distinctive taste. Nurturing. Made from millet flour, water, sugar.

        Before you end in Vefa Bozacısı, just stop at the shop across, Tarihi Vefa Leblebicisi, to buy some roasted chickpeas. 200 grams will do. Part of the ritual.

        Then cross the street, the heart warming lace curtain windows await you. The glasses are filled with a special ladle, from the big marble bowl. Then sprinkled with cinnamon, placed on the counter for the hungry eyes.

        Before the cold days are over, just pay a visit to this beautiful place and have  a glass of boza.

        Address: Katip Çelebi Cad. No:104/1, Vefa, Istanbul

        Phone: (212) 519 4922

        Service Hours: Boza is served between October till April.

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        http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=115892730179642545791.00047a372bc1071a812e9&ll=41.021355,28.960733&spn=0.039178,0.077162&z=14

          Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi – Istanbul

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          Third generation, same place, same menu. Pure success story. Lot of similar restaurants popped up in years, scattering around Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi. They stayed the original, humble, delicious.

          Entering through the door you find the grill on one of your side, the cash register on the other. If full you may wait couple of minutes for a new table. It is a very busy restaurant, but with a quick turnover. Locals and tourists eat here, savoring every bite. The walls are full of autographs, nice compliments, etc. The waiters are the same over the years, added by the rookies, trying to be like them.

          Menu is köfte, which is house speciality, yogurt, piyaz, rice pilaf, irmik helvası – a dessert, a sweet treat made with semolina, sugar, pine nuts and margarine, sadly margarine, it is better with butter- worth a try, after that savory meal you had and ayran, if you have a sweet tooth. It is not a fix menu, but  almost anyone eats the same, köfte, piyaz, ayran. And to finish with, irmik helvası.

          You may be grabbed by your arm to be taken in from the other köfteci restaurants around, but don’t be fooled by them. There is only one original.

          Address: Divanyolu Cad. No:12, Sultahahmet, Istanbul

          Phone: (212) 520 0566

          Service Hours: Open everyday from 10.30-11.00am till 10.30-11.00pm

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            Sabırtaşı – Istanbul

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            In loving memory of Ali Topçuoğlu

            His face was one of the faces I had gotten familiar in the first years I moved to Istanbul. His apron was spotlessly white and clean, buttoned to the last one.  He always had it on. He had that beautiful display, where he got to keep the içliköfte always hot. He had the same spot for years where he met with his customers, in front of Atlas Pasajı.

            İçliköfte was always spicy, the meat was always delicious, the ingredients always spoke for themselves. They were shaped perfectly, all handmade patiently, lovingly and then deep fried to a golden crust. One bite you get the taste of all. For years Mrs. Topçuoğlu, his wife, made us feel the warmth of home cooking, her gentle touch.

            Years passed, he became a part of our lives. All of ours. He was there when we needed a snack in between two drinks, or just before going on a dinner date, or carry them home, or without a reason, cause it was good!

            Although they still make içliköfte and sell it at the entrance of their mini restaurant, nothing will be the same for me, after Mr. Ali Topçuoğlu passed away.

            May he rest in peace, this is the smallest thing we can do for him, after all the beautiful moments and tastes had been cherished…

            Address: Istiklal Cad. No: 112 Kat 5, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu, Istanbul

            Phone: (212) 251 9423

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              7-8 Hasanpaşa Fırını – Istanbul

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              Raisin, orange, apple, banana cookies, baton salé, savory cookies with nigella seeds, bran, rye bread, sandwich breads, Easter bread, kinds of cakes displayed on the big oven trays on the counter and over the window display. Busy bee workers, a rush as well as the sweet smell dancing in the air…

              You will leave with hands full and happy but end up buying more then you can eat.

              There is a taste for everyone this old establishment in Beşiktaş Çarşı.

              Adddress: Şehit Asım Cad. No:12, Beşiktaş, Istanbul

              Phone: (212) 261 9766

              Opening Hours : 08:00am- 9:30pm

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                Simit – Istanbul

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                This timeless, this traditional flavor is so simple yet so hard to forget…

                Crunchy, twisted – literally -, sesame covered, oven baked savory pastry is a street taste. Some of us like it plain, some with Turkish tea and cheese, some with ayran, some with marmalade. No matter what you decide to accompany it with, simit is always good. Simit is my excuse for a boat trip!

                Needless to say more,  if you see a simit trolley or a guy carrying all of that brown rings on top of his head, stop him, have one or two. Bite it and hear that sound and your mouth fulls with joy, and sesames all over you :)