Köfte & Piyaz – Büyükada

In Büyükada, you supposed to eat fish, right? Wrong!

The lining restaurants at the seaside, which apply different fees to different kinds of customers, you never know which one you are till you get the bill, you may end up paying an unexpected amount of money, to an unworthy meal. The annoying-greeter-employees, standing in front of the restaurants and shouting  ‘buyruuun’ trying to grab us and everyone else walking  before them, inside their restaurants… being a local and rather hating this kind of behaviour, we escaped…

Since Büyükada, is an island at the end of the day you have couple of options to eat a decent meal and we decided to sit down at the small restaurant to try the köfte and piyaz. In the middle of çarşı, a small, intact, clean restaurant.

You may order soup, piyaz, köfte so we ordered one piyaz to share and 2 köfte. Actually after we tasted piyaz we understood it was a mistake, you want to eat more of that silky beans, danced in vinegar and oil, leaving you with a mellow robust. There I said it, it was wrong to order just one piyaz. While we were there couple of customers, locals just came to eat piyaz and left.

We were half way through by the time our köfte arrived. Köfte was accompanied with a pepper paste, and a slice of tomato. Later I learned it was specially made for Köfte & Piyaz. It was not one of  those industrial paste’s, it was mild hot, peppery-of course- yet smooth and silky, I spread it on my bread and enjoyed it, then finishing what was on the other plate.

And köfte was so delicious, I can not forget it. It was cooked perfectly, a little pink in the middle, juicy, yet seared perfectly. But it is not only the cooking what made it so good, the meat was top quality, seasoned perfectly, as Bülent Sönmez, owner of this humble gem, telling me,” no secrets, the meat is beef and it is good…” Well, it is very good!

Little chitchat, we sat there watching the locals arrive, ordering “the same”, enjoying their meal, with their hands full of shopping bags… We were in the right place.

Life is good on the island, since you have Köfte & Piyaz.

Address: Şht. Recep Koç Caddesi, No:4/B, Büyükada

Phone: (216) 382 7184

Istanbulfood maps: It is one of these days, because of the Google issues we are facing in Turkey, I could not map the location. Just hang on…

Büyükada Pastanesi – Büyükada

On a nice sunny morning we hopped on a ferry and began our trip to Büyükada. The sea is calm, a little breeze, seagulls literally crying…and hungry stomachs. By the time we finished our coffee in the travel mugs finished we approached Büyükada. It was about time for breakfast, so we hopped out!

We almost ran to Büyükada Pastanesi. The small baker & patisserie was located in çarşı, between the other small shops. Like everyone else we were greeted with pleasant faces and the sweet smell surrounded us. Hard to choose, bought a bag of sakızlı kurabiye (cookies with mastic), börekitas – the puff pastry poğaça-  with eggplant puree, another with cheese. While munching on our breakfast, found ourselves thinking what to buy next, walking through the houses of Büyükada, with the clanging sounds of fayton, the horse carriages, locals of the island still walking sleepily.

On our next  but not last visit to Büyükada Pastanesi we found time for a chat with Hüseyin Karayaprak and his lovely wife Nevruz. Hüseyin Bey who learned his baking skills from the owner of the shop and has been taking care of the shop for a long time alone with her lovely wife. They are both very passionate about this small fırın, serving their customers and believe me you got impressed by that, even in that small amount  of time you spent there, watching them dealing with their loyal customers and the newcomers. Everyone gets royal treatment here along with their goodies.

We bought a cheerful package full of  mini ay çöreği, promised to stop again. Ay çöreği is a sweet pastry, shaped like a new moon, a chubby new moon it is, like croissant. It has a layer of yeast dough wrapping the stuffing which is made of leftover cake pieces or dry bread, dry fruit and nuts. We have been told when we were kids, that the leftover stale cocoa cakes gave that distinctive taste. Ayçöreği took me away, to my high school days, in our dark navy uniforms, sneaking to the nearest patisserie for smokes, drinking tea, munching on poğaça and ayçöreği, while the others study…

The other day before the ferry home Büyükada Pasatnesi was our last stop.  A box full of their well known sakızlı lokumlu kurabiye -cookies literally tucked with mastic flavored Turkish Delight- and kalçunya -egg-less, chewy cookies filled with fried fruits-, another bag of that thin, crunchy, light as feather and yummy sakızlı kurabiye, my eyes rolling on the bags of cookies with rakı, cloves, lemon, orange, ginger…

Promised to be back again, fare-welled by Hüseyin Bey and Nevruz Hanım, left the small shop with a smile on my face.

Address: Recep Koç caddesi, No:42, Büyükada

Phone: (216) 382 4303

Istanbulfood maps