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Artichoke chips, paté, zeytinyağlı enginar, sauteed artichokes…. Artichoke cooked every way, for all, from all. It may sound ridiculous to you but artichoke is the king and queen of the vegetables summoned, for me. Not a true vegetable, but belonging … Continue reading
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To how many of you I recommended Asmalı Cavit I really do not recall, since it is the one place I love going over and over again, it is one of my safest places where I always reserve the same … Continue reading
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During his college years, he told me they -5 to 15 people!!!- used to stop at Lades (2) Lokantası (just across Lades Lokantası ) for lunch, just to have this menemen. I can imagine the small place filled with students … Continue reading
It is calm inside, free from the enormous Beyoğlu clatter. Walk through the dining saloon, on your right you get to blink to the desserts, and before you reach to the kitchen cold olive oil dishes are ready to steal your tummy, all plated looking very appealing.
On the hot plate, stews, vegetable dishes, soups, pilav and meat dishes of the day waiting to be picked and to be devoured by the hungry ones. Pick yours and do not forget the tandır, lamb meat cooked in its own jus hours, getting crispier outside, while maintaining to be moist inside.
Their milk desserts like kazandibi is worth a try, it has the right amount of sugar and starch, burnt top leaving you with a caramelized-milky aftertaste.
No music just the spoons and forks scraping the food and a lovely murmur hanging in the air. A typical esnaf lokantası – tradesman restaurant – where everyone knows the specialty of the day like ciğer on Tuesdays or döner on Mondays and Thursdays.
It is a fool proof, safe food away from home, you may become a regular like the rest of their customers.
Address: Sadri Alışık Sk. No:14, Beyoğlu, Istanbul
Phone: (212) 251 3203
Service Hours: Closed Sundays, the other days open through the day.
Walking down the Orhan Adli Apaydın Sokak, if you see a crowd of suits and white collars, people gathered, waiting hungrily or smoking happily then you are in front of Şahin Lokantası.
Serving since 1967, Ismail Şahin, known as Şahin Usta or Baba, holding his business together, cooking, talking to customers and sitting on his small desk to cash the bills. The chef is working with him for 32 years, and doing a great job.
When you enter the restaurant, you go directly to the kitchen counter, where you can see a colorful layover of the dishes like çoban kavurma, rice pilaf, lentil soup, chickpea stew, big tray of Izmir köfte topped with hand cut potatoes, tavuk kapama, fırın makarna, kadınbudu köfte and many more. Most of the dishes are cooked in oven. The chickpeas are melting in your mouth, you do not need to add any salt or pepper, the taste is perfect. İzmir köfte, the köfte is a little spicy, soft, leaving you with a mouthful of flavor. All the ingredients are top notch. He even did not change his butcher for 30 years, nor the grocery.
You feel you are eating at home. Food from the heart.
Save some space for kadayıf, if it is on the menu that day. The kadayıf is like falling from a grandmother’s hand. Thick, crunchy on the top, moist and silky and soft in the middle with a layer of walnuts, then the bottom is a little burnt, the Golden brownish color. The syrup is just right amount and right sweetness. You can have a whole – believe me the smallest portion is even big- piece of it, yet you continue living.
If you want to have a morning soup, you should go there till 10.00am, or you will be left empty belly. Mondays işkembe – tripe soup, Thursdays paça – trotter soup. The trotter soup is to die for, smooth, silky, well cooked, texture wise perfect.
One important reminder, you may not find all the dishes after 1.30pm, so act up.
Prepare to wait, share your table and eat hearty home cooked meal.
Address: Orhan Adli Apaydın Sk. No:11/A, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu, Istanbul
Phone: (212) 244 2543 
Service Hours: Opens early in the morning for soup service till 5.00-5.30pm. Closed on Sundays.
In loving memory of Ali Topçuoğlu
His face was one of the faces I had gotten familiar in the first years I moved to Istanbul. His apron was spotlessly white and clean, buttoned to the last one. He always had it on. He had that beautiful display, where he got to keep the içliköfte always hot. He had the same spot for years where he met with his customers, in front of Atlas Pasajı.
İçliköfte was always spicy, the meat was always delicious, the ingredients always spoke for themselves. They were shaped perfectly, all handmade patiently, lovingly and then deep fried to a golden crust. One bite you get the taste of all. For years Mrs. Topçuoğlu, his wife, made us feel the warmth of home cooking, her gentle touch.
Years passed, he became a part of our lives. All of ours. He was there when we needed a snack in between two drinks, or just before going on a dinner date, or carry them home, or without a reason, cause it was good!
Although they still make içliköfte and sell it at the entrance of their mini restaurant, nothing will be the same for me, after Mr. Ali Topçuoğlu passed away.
May he rest in peace, this is the smallest thing we can do for him, after all the beautiful moments and tastes had been cherished…
Address: Istiklal Cad. No: 112 Kat 5, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu, Istanbul
Phone: (212) 251 9423
